Uploads from zoglmannk

Prairie Wildflower

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 17:19:55 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

This tiny flowering plant has been far more proliferate this spring than in recent years. This spring has been unusual with a lot of fluctuating temperatures. This tiny plant is commonly known as Henbit and is considered a common lawn weed. But it is also known by its scientific name of Lamium amplexicaule L. For a bit more information on it see this external link.

I discovered this tiny flowering plant for myself last year while exploring the K-State Gardens with a macro lens. It is a plant that can easily be overlooked. The unaided eye is unable to capture this level of detail. This image was taken at around 4x life size.

Despite it being a bit windy that morning, I was able to use the macro lens and get something useable. Sometimes a bit of luck and patience are required to catch a subject at this scale.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon MP-E 65mm 1-5x Macro Lens with MT-24 EX macro flash
Taken at 65mm f/16 1/200 ISO 1600 (Handheld)
my identifier: _V5A9296c

Bouquet

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 07:06:26 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

This year spring has come in fits of warm and cold. This has dampened the pristine and delicate flowers that signal the end of winter and the beginning celebration of life in spring. At the K-State Gardens I found a young shrub. It was a lovely sight to see many of the flowers running along the branches clustered into small bouquets.

This was the first time that I used a non-neutral color for vignetting. The primary color of the flowers was used to vignette and lesson the off-putting browns in the background. As a technique I think this worked out well. Overall, I found this image difficult to process.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro Lens
Taken at 50mm f/8 1/160 ISO 100
my identifier: _V5A9550

Tetris

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 07:04:40 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

A photo of my significant other crafting a replica of a 1989 Game Boy... As a child he spent many hours fixated on the black and white screen wasting the day away with one game or another. Like many others, Tetris was one of his favorite games. That weekend he was inspired to create an artwork based on his fond memories of the distant past.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM lens
Taken at 50mm f/1.4 1/160 ISO 650
my identifier: _V5A9436

Summer Innocence

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sat, 20 Apr 2013 21:25:38 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Moments after taking this picture I realized that a black bear was 15 feet in front of me! I choose to go hiking on a trail just outside of the Great Sand Dunes National Park. I had not gotten more than 200 feet onto the trail before I had a chance encounter with this bear. This was the first time that I had seen a bear in person outside of a zoo!

I cropped this imaged and have enjoyed using it as my desktop wallpaper. If you'd like to try it out, a widescreen (16:9) version can be found here.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM lens
Taken at 50mm f/1.4 1/1000 ISO 100
my identifier: _V5A6548

Distant Sunset

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sat, 20 Apr 2013 21:24:24 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

I have wanted to reprocess this image for a long time, but the image quality was lacking. This reasonable captures the spirit of that evening at the Great Sand Dunes National Park. It was an arduous climb hundreds of feet up a steep sand dune. I made it to the top of a great dune shortly after sunset. The wind was blowing fiercely and I was out of breath.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon EF 24-105mm IS USM lens
Taken at 24mm f/11 2.5 sec ISO 100
my identifier: _V5A6201_HDR

Great Sand Dune National Park

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Wed, 04 Jul 2012 13:52:48 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Please view large!

This is a panoramic photograph at sunset of the great sand dunes in south central Colorado. The perspective vertically compresses the sand dunes, which hides the fact that the tallest sand dunes are 750 feet tall! I left the people in this photo for some sense of scale. If you look closely and at higher resolution, you will see them.

This photograph is created from 2 sets of 11 images each taken at two different exposures. One set of images were exposed for the sky and the other set for the sand dunes. After stitching the two sets of photographs together, I manually composited two exposures to form this higher dynamic range image. I discovered in this process that Photoshop doesn't exactly stitch two sets of photographs in the exact same way. I had to slightly puppet warp one of the panoramic images to fit it to the other one.

If you would like to get a feel for the wide expanse, feel free to take a look at this massively wide panoramic image that I took the next morning. To reasonably view this image I am hosting it offsite and using JavaScript. Click the link and make your browser full screen. Then click and move the mouse left and right to pan the image. It works great in Firefox, but somewhat slow in Safari.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens
Taken at 24mm f/11 1/125 ISO 125 and ISO 500

my identifier: combined worked 9

Chill'n with a Wild Bunny (Kevin)

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Tue, 12 Jun 2012 19:35:46 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

This little bunny lives under the steps of our apartment. It took a while to gain his trust. I ended up across the street and was able to get within 5 feet. It was kind of magical sitting there watching him for about 20 minutes through the view finder. I made sure to take a break from taking pictures and really taken in the moment. He was initially very nervous of the shutter clicking on the camera. Once he got over being scared he went about his business being cute and all.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 lens
Taken at 125mm f/6.3 1/200th sec ISO 3200

my identifier: _V5A4962

Milky Way - Test

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Tue, 12 Jun 2012 19:05:19 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Early this year I built a barn door tracker so that I could take longer exposures of the night time sky without creating star trails. Everything about astrophotography is extreme and relatively difficult. Last night I wanted to test compositing a picture such that there was no foreground motion blur and no star trails. I took one 4 minute exposure with the barn door tracker on to prevent star trails. Then I took a 3 min 21 sec exposure with the barn door tracker off to capture a clean crisp foreground. I then composited the two images together to create this image.

I feel that this technique was successful and I learned enough to try again. The thing I didn't know previously is that I need to be careful about the kinds of things in the foreground. A nearby tree with no foliage is a bad subject to include in the frame. It creates a difficult problem where neither image is appropriate in small parts of the image and it is excessively difficult to mask and clean up. You can see this problem with the tree on the right. What appears to be motion blue because of wind is actually a compositing problem.

The final image was difficult to post process because there were three light sources--the moon just on the horizon, a yard light about 500 feet behind the tree line, and a small town several miles away. All three light sources had a different white balance and even worse they exacerbated the sky glow and sky gradient. I tried to minimize these issues as much as reasonably possible without compromising the integrity of the image. I also tried to reduce the vignetting of the lens as much as possible. Luckily I choose to stop down the lens by 1 f-stop due to strong vignetting that was visible on the LCD at f/2.8.

In the future I will work harder on creating a better composition. Certainly the trees on the right take away from the overall image. This image was primarily a test image, but I had enough success that I wanted to show others my progress thus far. I would also like to increase the clarity and contrast by reducing noise, increasing overall exposure through stacking, and reducing light pollution. I used the in-camera noise reduction as opposed to getting several high quality darks and subtracting using that.

If you are interested, this is the basis for the barn door tracker that I built. The difference is that I decided to use a stepper motor, stepper motor driver, and a micro controller (Arduino) to drive the platform. In practice I have been able to increase the exposure time by about 10x to retain an image without star trails.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon EF 20mm f/2.8 USM
f/4 ISO 1600
star background 4min - foreground 3min 21sec

my identifier: milky way c

Konza Prairie Sunrise

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Fri, 08 Jun 2012 18:45:28 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Please view large!

This panoramic photograph was taken at sunrise at the head of the Konza Prairie Trail. At the time I was disappointed I didn't arrive 30 minutes earlier to get a good spot on the trail for the sunrise. This photograph was taken from the parking lot looking into a field. You can see the outline of the rolling hills off in the distance and the tree line advancing toward me on the right. Overall, I'm pleased with how this turned out.

This is not an HDR image. It was taken from 18 hand held portrait orientated images stitched together in Photoshop. I have this printed out as a 13"x38" print. Despite being cropped some horizontally, there is no shortage of pixels! This is an 81 mega pixel image.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon 50mm f/1.8 II lens -- "nifty fifty"
f/8 1/80th sec ISO 500

my identifier: split-b-flattened

K-State Fountain

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Fri, 08 Jun 2012 18:44:02 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

This is a relatively new fountain at the Kansas State University Gardens. I frequent the gardens in the spring time and noticed it for the first time a few weeks ago. I was inspired to try my take on photographing the fountain after seeing a couple of other images by others.

I love how the image is completely free from noise at ISO 50. This is my first HDR image. I was unable to get a satisfactory exposure without some form of HDR. The lights in the fountain are particularly harsh and they may even be LED lights. I tried to keep the final image looking as natural and realistic as possible, but I struggled a little to keep the yellow glare on the greenhouse within a believable range. And because I varied the shutter time instead of the aperture, there is both silky smooth flowing water and some frozen droplets of water. This creates an interesting effect in the resultant image. I'm open to critical comments on this image. Without exception I'm always critical of HDR. :)

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon 50mm f/1.8 II lens -- "nifty fifty"
f/4 at 1.3sec, 2sec, 3.2 sec, 5 sec, 8sec, 13 sec, and 20 sec at ISO 50

my identifier: k-state fountain b1 - Version 2

Sweet Nectar

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Mon, 28 May 2012 09:47:33 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Please view large!

This image was taken at the K-State Gardens. I happened to be at the right place and time to take this image. After a very windy day yesterday, I took advantage of the calm morning. When I noticed this butterfly, I slowly snuck up on it hoping not to scare it. I'm surprised that I was able to get this shot. This photo was taken with the MP-E 65mm macro lens. It is not a general purpose lens and requires close working distances.

Where there are amble butterflies, there are often bees. Slowly I am overcoming my phobia of bees. There were many large bees gathering nectar in this patch of flowering echinacea.

To increase the depth of field, I composited two images together. It was a challenge to make this work because the butterfly moved slightly and the two images weren't perfectly aligned. If you see anything out of place, let me know and I'll spend some more time on this photo.

If anyone knows which species of butterfly this is, you'll have to let me. It is a furry one! :)

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens
MT-24EX macro flash
f/8 1/100th sec ISO 400

my identifier: KSU Gardens 86f

Sea of Color

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Mon, 28 May 2012 09:36:09 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

The iridescent colors on the pollinating fly''s wing are brilliantly illuminated in a sea of bold colors. I would have liked just a touch more clarity and sharpness. There was a fair bit of wind in the morning, which made me push up the ISO.

It was a magical morning that day at the K-State gardens. I watched a little baby bunny eat a flower. Then a few minutes later while I was closely inspecting a flowering bush, a gust of wind pushed a humming bird out of the bush. I was stunned and watched the hummingbird fly and drink nectar 8 inches from my face!! It was one of the amazing things that I have seen! He flew there for 20 seconds before moving on.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon MP-E 65mm lens
MT-24EX macro flash
f/8 1/60th ISO 1000

my identifier: _V5A3165

Life Imitating Art

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Mon, 28 May 2012 09:24:39 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

I find the color palette of this image striking. In some ways this photograph has the appearance of a water color painting. I find it pleasing and hope you enjoy it too.

This image was taken at the K-State gardens. Although many of the flowers have passed their prime, I find it worthwhile to still take in the gardens.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon 50mm Macro Lens
MT-24EX macro flash
f/2.8 1/200th sec

my identifier: _V5A2997

Intensity of Life

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sat, 19 May 2012 20:07:05 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Please view large or even Full Screen! This was taken at the K-State Gardens. There are some shades of red that always trip of my camera. It has a tendency to render vibrant reds as unusual shades of magenta. This image was no different than many others. However, I was determined to recreate the orangish red that I saw in person.

I was unable to coax the color out of Photoshop Camera Raw or Aperture 3. I ended up using Canon's Digital Photo Professional software. I loath using Canon's software because of its user interface, but I have had success in getting colors to look more convincing and life like in tricky situations such as this. Being able to export 16bit TIFF's in large gamut color spaces helps too.

I feel that this images pushes what could be considered believable. It appears to border on hyper-realistic. But because of the nature of additive color, my choices were limited.

I'm open to critical comments on this image. :)

Canon T2i
Canon 50mm Macro Lens
f/2.8 1/80th sec

my identifier: _MG_3919b

Sunny Delight

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 10:23:59 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Please view large!

The water level is currently low at Tuttle Creek Lake, which affords a nice walk along the rocky shore. With the water level low you can see the destructive force of erosion at work. The exposed roots of this tree caught my eye along the bank.

I find the "color" of infrared images hard to get just right. The color in this final image is far from how it comes out of the camera. It requires a delicate balance. I like the subtle color variations of the roots.

my identifier: IR Tuttle 82 mirrored lab a

Andromeda Galaxy

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 09:25:53 -0700

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Camera Only - No Telescope and No Tracking
456 of 570 images stacked in DSS using 3x drizzle
70 darks and 100 bias frames were used to improve processing of the light images
ISO 1600, f/1.8, 1.3 seconds, 85mm prime lines
Canon T2i
Magic Lantern firmware used for intervalometer and 10x live preview focusing
ambient temperature - 33F / 0.5C
faintest identifiable star - 15.4 magnitude

This is the best image I have taken of the Andromeda Galaxy. I spent a lot of time this winter learning about astrophotography and trying to utilize my existing photo equipment to image the night time sky with only a camera and tripod. I went so far as to build a barn door tracker to move the camera with the same motion of the night time sky and get longer exposure times. Unfortunately, the longer exposure times brought out more star bloat.

This summer I might try pushing this technique of stacking short exposures to the extreme by stacking 1,500 sub-exposures. I would like to see more tonality and color in the Andromeda galaxy.

my identifier: Autosave a2 16bit 3

Orion Nebula M42

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 13:18:20 -0800

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Please view large on black!

This is my first successful attempt at astrophotography! The first night was a bust, but I learned what not to do. I'm impressed this is even possible with just an (unmodified) dSLR, a fast lens, a tripod, and special software to process a number of images! The entrance to the park area of Tuttle Creek Lake is reasonably dark and shielded from the lights of Manhattan.

I am currently using Deep Sky Stacker, a free program, to process the individual images. It is critical that the stars do not have star trails, otherwise there tends to be problems precisely registering the images so that they align perfectly. I am using the highest ISO that gathers actual data as opposed to just adding noise. This is dependent on the camera model; it seems to be ISO 1600 for the Canon T2i. Prefer a fast prime lens to a zoom lens, especially when no kind of tracking is available. I used other ISO speeds in an attempt to gather more color information.

Be sure to turn off the display when you are taking pictures. The display will add extra heat to the inside of the camera, which will needlessly add extra heat to the CMOS sensor. For a CCD based sensor the noise doubles for every 6C (10.8F) increase in temperature. I don't know if these numbers conform exactly to a CMOS based sensor, but the principle still applies. While running technical tests on the Canon T2i by shooting a series of dark pictures, I found that the sensor noticeably heats up and produces far more noise. With a comparable set of darks with the display turned on, the sensor heated up even faster and produced a corresponding amount of extra noise. As a side note, with all things being equal and with a camera that isn't temperature controlled, it is better to take astrophotographic pictures while it is cooler outside for essentially the same reason. The cooler ambient temperatures keep the CMOS sensor cooler, which keeps the amount of noise down.

I found the Magic Lantern firmware to be immensely helpful in correctly focusing my lens in live preview and also providing an intervalometer. Focusing with the live preview is helpful, but it is best to take test pictures and compare them on a laptop before you get too far. It is just too hard to tell for sure if the focus is perfect on the LCD screen of the camera. It is better to spend more time upfront than to come back and find that all of your pictures are out of focus.

In the 151 image stack there were 3 sets of images. In each set there were about 50 light frames, 20 dark frames, and 100 bias frames. The dark and bias frames help to greatly reduce the noise in the image. I used photoshop to bring out as much detail and color as possible without emphasizing the noise too much.

Comparing visible stars to the catalog in Stellarium, it appears that the faintest recognizable star is around 13.7 apparent magnitude in the 151 stacked image versus 10.8 apparent magnitude in the single non-stacked image. [Apparent Magnitude]

I initially thought that 14x times more light was being picked up in the stacked image. (2.512 ^ (13.7 - 10.8) = 14.46) because the faintest recognizable star went from 10.8 to 13.7 apparent magnitude when comparing the single image to the stacked image. I'm not 100% sure any more. I previously thought that light was being gathered in a non-linear fashion with multiple exposures. A discussion on the Deep Sky Stacker Yahoo group, claims that an additional amount of exposure worth of light isn't being gathered in the stacking process. Instead, they say stacking greatly improves the signal in the resultant image, such that the faintest recorded stars are visible above the noise. The faint stars are in all of the exposures, but they are buried in noise. And additionally Blair MacDonald mentions that "In order to be detectable in the image a single star must be about 3 standard deviations above the noise floor."

However, I'm not convinced that no additional exposure worth of light is being added during the stacking process. In an exchange with someone else he says that "… a modern SLR is truly sensitive enough to capture and digitize individual photons. The read noise is generally between 2-20 equivalent photons, so that definitely gets in the way, because the light source you're trying to measure itself has noise (Poisson distribution). But yes, you can stack almost infinitely dim sub-exposures to get a result. The extra time required goes up dramatically at some point, because the read noise accumulates, but it is possible. This is why, all things being equal, longer exposures are better. But most of the time all things are not equal."--anonymous. If cameras are that sensitive, I can see how given enough sub-exposures and stacking, a periodic photon source at a particular pixel that only shows up in every x sub-exposures could still be translated into a luminosity value above zero.

To my knowledge everyone is recommending a certain number of sub-exposures to deal with practical issues, such as noise and tracking issues over very long exposures. John Smith released a couple of papers that are useful in determining the number of sub-exposures in imaging a particular deep sky object. I have created a spread sheet based on his work that should be useful to others getting started with astrophotography. You put in an initial sub-exposure time and total exposure time and it updates two tables. One table shows different options for keeping the same SNR but adjusting the number of subs-exposures and individual exposure times. The other table shows how SNR changes by keeping the total exposure time constant, but varying the number of subs-exposures and the individual exposure times. You can find it here. You should be able to open the spreadsheet either in Open Office or Excel.

There are some options for choosing the number of sub-exposures, but there is a practical minimum exposure that is needed to record the object. The practical minimum will depend on a number of factors. Some of them include the background sky luminosity, the camera/sensor being used, and the target object's luminosity. Keep this in mind when looking at the spreadsheet.

On a related note, I went out again and took over 1,400 images of the Orion Nebula with 200 dark frames! The outing was a bit of a bust because the images were slightly out of focus and had star trails. Despite the problems, I processed them as a massive stack with sigma clipping in Deep Sky Stacker. The image was virtually noise free and it appeared that there was slightly more exposure, but not by a huge amount given the number of pictures. The faintest recognizable star may have been about .5 magnitude dimmer in the 1,400 image stack. Maybe if it had been more in focus, there would have been a more dramatic improvement?

I am working on building a barn door tracker so that I can take much longer exposures and get images that are not practically possible for me right now. Being limited to 1 to 2 seconds at 85mm is very restrictive! It will use an Arduino and a stepper motor for automated tracking. From what I have read, I should be able to get 15x as long exposures (or more) before star trails show up.

In the process of learning more about lenses and astrophotography, I found out that chromatic aberration can be particularly problematic with the use of lenses. Most photographers are more familiar with the variety known as lateral chromatic aberration. But a special kind of chromatic aberration known as longitudinal chromatic aberration (or axial color), shows up as colored fringing that completely incircles objects such as stars. This is caused by the lens being unable to focus all wave lengths of visible light at the same point. My 85mm lens is not apochromatic and thus exhibits this flaw. I have gone back and replaced the original image that I uploaded with a hand corrected version that attempts to visually minimize the color fringing. Color tends to build up perceived contrast, so I greatly reduced the saturation of color in the purplish fringes and replaced the color with a small amount of random color from the background sky. I feel that this change is a noticeable improvement over the original. If anyone has thoughts on this, I welcome their input.

my identifier: orion nebula d

Tuttle Puddle in Infrared

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sun, 18 Dec 2011 15:28:29 -0800

zoglmannk posted a photo:

Tuttle Creek receded quite a bit recently and left a large puddle. I got my shoes caked with mud as I walked across the drying lake bed. I considered turning back, but it was already too late. As long as I didn't sink more than an inch into the mud I was determined to get to a good spot. The air was still and the sun was sitting fast. The white in the background was the only direct illumination from the sun.

I started with the standard red and blue channel swap. And continued to refine the color, contrast, and brightness of the image. An infrared camera is a little difficult to work with, but when everything comes together it is a joy.

The camera is a Canon Digital Rebel converted for infrared use by Life Pixel with their standard IR filter, which cuts off at about 720nm.

my identifier: CRW_7306 1

Self Portraiture in Infrared (Mostly Hand Colored)

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Sun, 18 Dec 2011 15:28:03 -0800

zoglmannk posted a photo:

I was a little disappointed when I took this picture. I was expecting to find a small water fall at this location. Instead mother nature had eroded it away sometime within the last two years. I believe the rock that I'm sitting on use to be a part of the falls. The lake level has recently receded quite a bit and the landscape was decimated by the power of water. I sat briefly taking in the moment as the sun set below the horizon.

This was taken with my infrared camera and while there were some colors to work with, I manually and painstakingly recreated the vast majority of color. My Wacom tablet really came in handy.

I'm open to feedback, especially in terms of the color.

The camera is a Canon Digital Rebel converted for infrared use by Life Pixel with their standard IR filter, which cuts off at about 720nm.

Hmm.. the more I look at this picture, the more it bothers me that I didn't follow the rule of thirds. What do you think? I could try cropping it a bit differently.

my identifier: CRW_7292 6 (within Aperture)

Infrared XBox Discovery

nobody@flickr.com (zoglmannk) — Fri, 16 Dec 2011 05:35:28 -0800

zoglmannk posted a photo:

The light projected on Jason reminds me of ritualistic face and body paintings found in other parts of the world. For some, the XBox 360 is a way of life. For those that also have the Kinect, they will probably never be aware of how their face and body is being painted with infrared light as they engage in games.

I recently bought a used Canon 300D camera that had been converted for dedicated infrared use. I intend on using it primarily for landscapes during the spring and summer time. But as I initially played around with the camera one evening, I was confused when I saw many bright points of light on back of the camera with its low quality LCD. It looked like noise and I thought maybe something was wrong with the camera. I took a number of pictures anyway before looking at them more closely on the computer. But when I opened up this picture, I was REALLY surprised. It took a moment to realize what it was. We recently purchased an XBox 360 Kinect. Apparently it emits a dazzling array of infrared light to track a game player's movement.

Infrared tends to make people eyes look a bit evil and unflattering, so I made them look more normal. I wasn't initially going to post this image since it was more of a snapshot, but it has grown on me and I have never seen anything quite like it.

The flare came from a candle that is just out of frame on the lower left. Multi-coatings have little effect on infrared light in preventing flare. I learned that I need to use a lens hood on the camera even while inside! The only light illuminating this scene was the XBox 360 Kinect, a candle, and a 40watt CFL from the other room. Fluorescent and CFL bulbs put off very little infrared light, so this ended up being an 8 second exposure. Jason did pretty good at holding still for that long!

If you are wondering what is on the plate, it is a carmel apple that he was sitting down to enjoy.

The camera is a Canon Digital Rebel converted for infrared use by Life Pixel with their standard IR filter, which cuts off at about 720nm.

my identifier: CRW_7163