Recent Uploads tagged koninginnedag, with geodata

Brandweer

nobody@flickr.com (Arend Jan Wonink) — Sun, 19 May 2013 00:30:18 -0700

Arend Jan Wonink posted a photo:

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Vrijmarkt

nobody@flickr.com (Arend Jan Wonink) — Sun, 19 May 2013 00:30:18 -0700

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Toeschouwer

nobody@flickr.com (Arend Jan Wonink) — Sun, 19 May 2013 00:30:19 -0700

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2013 30 april Remi (7)

nobody@flickr.com (mafo) — Fri, 17 May 2013 03:20:18 -0700

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nobody@flickr.com (mafo) — Fri, 17 May 2013 03:18:56 -0700

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Street artists in Amsterdam on Queensday

nobody@flickr.com (Nico Geerlings) — Wed, 15 May 2013 05:11:13 -0700

Nico Geerlings posted a photo:

Father and son are playing music to collect some money during festivities on Queensday in Amsterdam

Zenuwachtig

nobody@flickr.com (Ilona67) — Tue, 14 May 2013 21:29:49 -0700

Ilona67 posted a photo:

Queensday 2013 - The Orange Lady

nobody@flickr.com (P1nc) — Tue, 14 May 2013 11:35:35 -0700

P1nc posted a photo:

INFO For Group Learning Zone:

Camera: Canon 5D MK II
Lens: 70-200 4L Canon

1/500
F4
ISO 100
145 MM
No Flash

Re-edit: Adjusted the greens not sure if its ok.... processed on laptop.

Processed with PS RAW (v7)

first set lens correction (load profile for lens and camera). 2nd... follow workflow first from top to bottem tab one, during contrast adjustment you can also switch to tab two (also contrast adjustment, but with curves). then go further down in step two. For contrast adjusting and others also zoom in and zoom out, to 100 percent or more is good for best result.

After this I adjusted some colors slightly (luminance and saturation). Mainly the greens, yellows and orranges, to make them pop a bit more. Just slide and you will see, play with it !

Then I used the brush tool in RAW for the eyes, gave it slightly more exposure and clarity, especially important for white in eyes, but also makes colors in middle more prominent. ZOOM in so both eyes are in view, you can delete selected parts with brush by holding down the ALT button to get a clear selection brush enabling you to perfect the selection for eyes easy. So dont be afraid to brush, and set size ok.

This BRUSH is same as GND tool and can be used in ALL PICS, the amazing new thing in the new RAW converter is that it also enables different COLOR TEMP settings for certain parts of image, and also noise reduction, which is especially usefull for skies in pictures.

But back to image, last but not least, noise reduction and sharpening, since its a portrait I have read and just experienced with this pic that setting radius a lot higher is very effective ! For pictures where you want more detail like a cityscape or something setting the radius like 0.7 works better. While you do this be zoomed in at least 100 percent ! Set settings for main subjects ! If other parts like sky become to noisey, but rest is ok. Use brush with noise settings, and to see selection easy with brush simply set it to expose to -100 the when selection is ok, set it back to 0 and adjust the selection ;-)

Also spot removal seems to be a good tool in RAW. You can find tools in TOP BAR, just hover over them with mouse to see what they are. Then opened in PS6 did some slight contrast adjustment with color effex pro and also slight skin smoothing. Then slightly more folliage to green. I zoomed in and removed some tiny spots. Also tiny stains in head, I didnt want to bother with it to much. The eyes were still a bit to bright in center, but whites where perfect so selected the center of eyes with selection tool and duplicated to new layer by right clicking in windows and selecting, copy to new layer. Adjusted the EYE layer (image --> adjustment --> levels) Made it slightly darker, actually a bit to dark on purpose. Set the layer overlay mode to darken, and then set the layer opacity to the level where it looked natural.

Added logo ;-) and then uploaded with FILE --> SCRIPTS --> IMAGE PROCESSOR ... this feature is especially made for converting for WEB files back to sRGB as I shoot in aRGB because it simply has more colors. Also the main thing with doing MOST in RAW (of course you have to shoot RAW, if you dont yet, from now on DO ! ) is because while editing the RAW file you have most detail for the image, once you open it in PHOTOSHOP, you LOSE data you STILL had in RAW, so the more you can do in RAW the better ! It will save you a lot of NOISE !

I read most of this today in an EBOOK, though most I allready know, still reading and understanding why, and doing what you read after you do it, and experiencing it. That is what really boosts the learning curve....

so stop reading, and go edit a photo in the right flow if you have Photoshop and RAW, and update that RAW converter !!!!! GO Go go ;-)

Hope like my explenation, if you have questions, ask. Im not a pro in Photoshop, but this RAW converter I pretty much understand now. And the tool beyond RAW is infinite. But for photos I would say step 1 should always be RAW converter.... unless ofcourse you are dealing with IR photos lol ... but thats a different story.

Reason I like this photo is the expression to me conveys doubt. But I was there...